Celebrating the Iconic Women in Fashion

Women's History Month

Every March, we come together to honor women from every walk of life and reflect on their accomplishments by celebrating Women’s History Month. The month-long dedication was first recognized by Jimmy Carter in 1980 and then by Congress in 1987, who dedicated the entire month of March to recognizing how far women have come while facing the uphill battle of gender inequality struggles. We look to the past in hopes of inspiring future generations of women to continue shattering the proverbial glass ceiling.

When the world of fashion and the industry is discussed, we often reference male creative directors and tastemakers and eschew the accomplishments of women who have also paved the way in the field. While it seems that the world of fashion is becoming increasingly dominated by men and male voices, it’s important to recognize the women who made revolutionary advancements and stamped their forever signature on the industry.

In the 1920s, Chanel designed a bag as she was tired of having to carry her belongings by hand and created a silhouette inspired by the bags that soldiers carried. After World War II ended and Europe slowly recovered, Chanel would re-release the bag in 1955, naming it the “2.55” after its release date – February 1955. This original silhouette is completely inspired by Chanel’s life: the original lock closure is named “The Mademoiselle” due to Chanel never marrying, the burgundy leather interior and chain link strap is inspired by the convent in which she was raised in, and perhaps most intriguing, the interior zip pocket, where Chanel would keep secret love letters.

The bag would eventually be redesigned in the 80s, but the original silhouette and style remained the same. Without Coco Chanel, the fashion industry would look completely different and the women who own and operate their own houses and brands may have never been given their chance or opportunity.

Virginie Viard

After Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s successor, passed away in 2019, Virginie Viard took over as creative director and would remain in the role until 2024. Viard began her career as a costume designer and worked on the iconic film trilogy Three Colours. In 1987, Viard joined Chanel and worked in embroidery, and would eventually move to Chloé where she would remain until 1997 when she would return to Chanel. Viard worked closely with Lagerfeld until his death, as she would oversee Chanel’s ready-to-wear and haute couture collections. Viard’s first solo collection was in Chanel’s Resort 2020 collection in May 2019.

Viard co-created the Chanel 19 and Chanel 22 collection which redesigned the iconic Flap Bag – incorporating modern sensibilities with updated colors and textures. Viard always made sure to honor the enduring legacy of Coco Chanel while constantly striving to modernize and keep the brand relevant. Viard introduced new and improved advancements and sustainable practices to Chanel and began incorporating eco-friendly fabrics into her creations. Viard hoped to keep Chanel a fashion-forward brand while ensuring the legacy of Coco and the house was never forgotten.

In 1992, Miuccia would introduce the fashion house Miu Miu, which catered to a younger audience and celebrity tastemakers. Miuccia then presented Prada’s ready-to-wear collection for men in 1995, ensuring the house ran the gamut in every facet of fashion-forward thinking. Since her establishment as head of Prada, she has been honored with multiple awards and honors and is consistently viewed as one of the most important women in fashion.

Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski

Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski has worked for some of the most reputable fashion houses in the world including The Row, Céline, and Maison Martin Margiela before being appointed head of women’s ready-to-wear and creative director of Hermès International. Her first collection in March 2015 paid homage to the house’s equestrian roots.

Many of Giannini’s collections were inspired by heritage and vintage collections from Gucci’s past. Giannini was eventually appointed Gucci’s chief creative direction in 2006 and is credited for softening Gucci’s aesthetic after Tom Ford’s so-called “porno-chic” sensibilities. With every ready-to-wear collection, Giannini reissued iconic bags from Gucci’s past such as the Jackie and Bamboo, crafted in new colors and fabrics to cater to younger audiences. Giannini also introduced the now iconic Guccissima leather which features a stamped GG pattern similar to that of the Original GG canvas.

Phoebe Philo

Phoebe Philo is one of the most exciting designers of the modern generation and has attracted a large and loyal fanbase known as “Philophiles” due to her minimalistic and streamlined fashion aesthetic. Philo originally joined Chloé in 1997, worked under Stella McCartney and would eventually succeed her as creative director in 2001. Philo famously took an extended maternity leave in 2002, something that was unheard of at the time for a head of house. Philo remained with the house until 2006 when she would leave to raise her two children.

Philo would eventually return to the industry in 2008 as head of Céline where she spearheaded the creation of some of the most iconic bag collections of all time, redefining what the term “It Bag” meant. Philo oversaw the creation of the Trapeze and Luggage totes, which took the fashion world by storm, as well as the Trio crossbody.

Throughout Philo’s tenure as creative director she ensured that the focus of the fashion was always just that – she famously ran a campaign that did not include the heads of models, emphasizing the focus on clothing and handbags. Philo would eventually leave Céline in 2018 and start her own brand in 2021, but the legacy Philo left at Céline is unmatched as it has inspired both legacy brands and up-and-coming brands alike.

Chiuri famously reintroduced the Saddle bag silhouette alongside a tactical and modern marketing campaign on social media, utilizing influencers and models. Chiuri would also release the now iconic Book Tote silhouette in a variety of colors, sizes, and designs.

Chiuri brought modern feminist ideals to Dior, printing feminist Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s phrase “We Should All Be Feminists” on t-shirts worn by models at Spring 2017 collection. Chiuri would continue to implement feminist phrases at her shows such as “Could men and women be equal?” and “The patriarchy kills love” from feminist speaker Carla Lonzi’s manifesto. Chiuri continues to challenge gender norms and fight for equality in fashion through her collections and designs.